Penne With Swordfish or Tuna and Tomato Sauce

The sauce here is a sort of fish ragù common throughout Sicily and Southern Italy. In summer, use fresh tomatoes, but you can make it now with canned.

 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 pound swordfish or tuna steaks, skinned and cut in approximately 1/2-inch dice

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1/2 cup dry white wine (optional)

1 small onion, finely chopped

2 to 4 garlic cloves (to taste), minced

1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes (optional)

2 anchovy fillets, finely chopped

1 (28-ounce) can diced tomatoes, with juice, or 2 pounds fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded and diced or grated

1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 pound penne

1. Begin heating a large pot of water for the pasta.

2. Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, heavy nonstick skillet, and add the onion. Cook, stirring, until tender, about five minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high. Add the garlic, red chili flakes, anchovies and diced swordfish or tuna. Season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the fish changes color slightly, about two minutes. Add the wine, bring to a boil and continue to cook for two minutes while stirring. Then, using a slotted spoon, remove the fish and transfer to a bowl. Continue to boil the liquid in the pan until it has reduced to a couple of tablespoons.

3. Add the tomatoes to the pan, and bring to a simmer. Cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes, until they have cooked down slightly and smell fragrant. Stir the fish back into the pan, add the parsley and season the mixture to taste with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer, and simmer 10 minutes until the sauce is thick and fragrant. Taste, and adjust seasonings.

4. Bring the pasta water to a boil, and salt generously. Add the penne and cook al dente, eight to nine minutes or according to the timing directions on the package. Add 1/4 to 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water to the fish ragù, and stir well. Drain the pasta, toss with the sauce in the pan or in a pasta bowl, and serve.

Yield: Serves six.

Advance preparation: The fish ragù can be made a few hours before you’re ready to cook the pasta. Refrigerate, then reheat gently.

Nutritional information per serving: 445 calories; 9 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 29 milligrams cholesterol; 65 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 330 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 26 grams protein