In Apulia, part of southeastern Italy, arugula is cooked like a green as well as eaten raw in salads.

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1/2 pound arugula, coarsely chopped if the leaves are large, rinsed

1/4 teaspoon red chili flakes

3/4 pound penne rigata

32 manila clams, washed well

2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley or basil

Salt and freshly ground pepper if desired

1. Begin heating a large pot of generously salted water for the pasta.

2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large, flameproof casserole or Dutch oven. Add the garlic, arugula and chili flakes. Cook, stirring, until the arugula wilts, three to five minutes.

3. Turn up the heat to high under the casserole, add the clams, cover tightly and steam until they open, three to five minutes. Add the parsley or basil, stir the mixture, taste and season as desired. Turn off the heat, and return the lid to the pot.

4. Cook the pasta al dente, following timing instructions on the package but checking a minute before the indicated time. Add 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water to the pan with the arugula and clams. Drain the pasta, toss with the arugula and clam mixture, and serve.

Yield: Serves four.

Advance preparation: This is a last-minute dish that can be finished in the time it takes to boil water for the pasta.

Nutritional information per serving: 478 calories; 10 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 39 milligrams cholesterol; 69 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 88 milligrams sodium (does not include salt added during preparation); 27 grams protein